We disembarked in the fading light of late evening, and pedaled from the train station to Laval University in the magical light of dusk. The bike trail skirted the narrow space between the St Lawrence River and steep cliffs with the Old Town portion of Quebec City looming above us. With no inexpensive camping nearby, we decided try something different and stay in the residence hall at Laval University for $60 a night. Upon arrival we got our room key and pointed to the building we were to stay in -- on the third floor. We pushed our loaded bikes through the hallways at ground level until a kind student pointed us to the elevator, an antiquated manual thing with a sliding accordion-style grated door, and buttons that need to be held down continuously to call the elevator or to lift it to the desired level. Having never lived in the dormitories in college, and in fact, never visited one, I did not know what to expect. Our room was impeccably clean and well maintained, with a sink in the room and just steps away from a shared bathroom. But I would describe it as spartan at best. An nice English gentleman we met who was also staying on our floor for a brief stay was a bit harsher -- he said he stayed in a hotel in Russia in 1972 that was only slightly worse than this.

The materials we read about Quebec City in preparation for this trip were almost gushing in their descriptions of the city. It is the only walled city in North America, and claimed to be the most European on this as well. We took the bus into the Old Town of our first morning and headed to the highest floor attainable by non-guests of the Chateau Frontenac. The hotel is a landmark, perched on a high point with sweeping views of the river and the Old town below. If I could only remember to buy those lottery tickets, we might be able to afford a room there. But the view out a 14th floor window was free.



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