Plitvicka Jezera National Park, Croatia: Conga Line in the Garden of Eden

It is a mixed blessing to wake up to clouds in the morning. On the positive side, it means that when grinding up a long grade, at least the sweat doesn't wash all the sunscreen off your face and into your eyes.  But it also means, when...

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Knin, Croatia: Island Escape to the Hinterlands

The ride into Dubrovnik rattled us enough to have John rethink our planned route up the Croatia coast.  Too many buses, too many trucks, not enough shoulder.  We weren't alone in our thinking.  We met a couple of French girls...

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Dubrovnik, Croatia: A Gem on the Coast

After two months of traveling we have adjusted to the sun's cycle.  We are awake with the first light, which at our current latitude is about 5am.  Also, our packing and breakfast routine is finely tuned at this point, too, so we...

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Shkodra, Albania: The Grand (De)tour

It was just a few hours before we and our bikes boarded the plane to come to Europe that John read about a ferry in Albania that travels the length of Lake Koman, a long, skinny lake that passes through a gorge. So he made a cursory look at...

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